Showing posts with label consumerism. Show all posts
Showing posts with label consumerism. Show all posts

February 11, 2014

Shop: Curator

Stripe Tee - Grey

I've been thinking a lot about the whole "made in America" movement lately, so this post, which follows this train of thought, is quite appropriate.

One of the my favorite "made in America" shops is Curator, a stylish-yet-affordable, San Francisco-based brick and mortar boutique that offers wearable, uniquely designed clothing for both the hip and comfort seeking (I clearly fall under the latter category).  The company, whose tag line is, appropriately, "Made in California," is run by two clothing-designer best friends who have their stylin' SF designs sewn by local tailors in small batches--the end product is a one-of-a-kind line of decidedly feminine, cozy clothing with a flattering modern edge.

Frankie Hood


The coziness of the gorgeous sweatshirt above (I never thought I'd call a sweatshirt "gorgeous"...) is an example of what I mean about Curator's unique balance of basic and trendy elements in their designs.  Who knew a sweatshirt could be more than lazy-day outerwear?  I sure didn't.

Or that a dress could be worn on multiple occasions and essentially dressed up or down?  The below dress would look absolutely delightful paired with mid-calf boots, and would look equally flattering with heels.  Throw on a cardigan of your choice, and you are good to go.  This piece would surely make a pretty bridesmaid dress, as well as a "date night" dress.

Classic Dress

These are only a sampling of designs from Curator, but they comprise some of my current favorites.  What I love most about the company, besides their "made in America" mission and minimalist designs, is the quality of their products.  I know that I'm not the only one who has purchased "made elsewhere" t-shirts (as an example) from chain stores, only to find that the already-thin material becomes flimsier with each delicate-cycle wash--that the tiny pin holes in these year-old shirts grow with each passing month.

Due to this experience, I continue to be amazed at how well my tops from Curator hold up to the wear and tear that I consistently put them through, both when worn and in the washer and dryer (on "handwash" and "low," of course).  I've owned these Curator shirts for a few years, and they're still looking like new.  Love, love this shop!

Visit Curator here.

Now off to not-so-secretly ogle Curator's stripe tee in grey...


* * *


How's that for mindful consumerism?

January 31, 2013

New USPS Rates

As you've probably heard, USPS rates have gone up significantly as of January 27th, 2013.  With each of these yearly rate increases, I hold my breath and cringe, afraid to see exactly how much postage prices have risen in conjunction with the times.  Yes, I understand that the post office, in the name of patriotism and efficacy, needs to stay in business.  People need their jobs.  And believe me, I understand the importance of USPS in the maintenance of small online businesses via quick and efficient deliveries.  However, what I don't understand is how much the rates have gone up--what was once an affordable way to ship internationally is now mind-bogglingly expensive. 

International buyers bear the brunt and burden of this executive decision--with the new rates, the First-Class International option is no longer affordable. 

Through this online gizmo, I can figure out how much it will cost to ship a package of a certain weight (with specific USPS services, i.e.: First-Class, Priority, etc.) to almost anywhere in the world:



For example, a 3-ounce package shipped First-Class with Registered Mail (package insurance) to Australia will now cost me, and the buyer, $22.40. Last year, this package of the same weight/mail options would have cost me under $17.  You may say that I am making a huge deal out of the $5 difference, but when compared to the price of EmeraldCut shop items--which I strive to keep affordable--paying over $20 for shipping is excessive, to say the least. 

This issue leaves me in a conundrum, a moral dilemma of sorts?  Should I charge my buyers the new shipping prices, or should I keep with my old ones and swallow my tears when I have to fork out an extra $4-$7 to ship international orders?  (FYI: The January price hikes affect all international pricing--even Non-Registered, plain old First-Class Mail packages to Australia have gone up $4.)  Not every shop on Etsy can afford this, nor can all buyers.  Realistically speaking, people may even think twice about purchasing from non-domestic shops in order to avoid the price hike.  

Call me an alarmist, if you will, but I did not buy into this plan when I opened my shop in fall 2010.  Then I remind myself: life can be unfair at times, but at least I have my wit and humor intact--vital attributes in order to the brave the variable storm.

November 13, 2012

Holiday Goods

Are you ready for the holidays?  I'm sure not, but I'm stocking up my shop with some holiday goodies for a visual fete, or at least in theory--see below.


These new items will be slowly trickling into my shop, all by month's end (crosses fingers).  Hope you are having a blast of a week--the weather has been fickle in these parts as of late... 

October 03, 2012

Half the Sky





Did anyone catch "Half the Sky: Turning Oppression into Opportunity for Women Worldwide" on PBS this week? It's a documentary based on the book of the same name by the husband-wife journalist team Nicholas D. Kristof and Sheryl WuDunn.  They were the first couple to win the Pulitzer Prize, which was for their coverage of the 1989 Tiananmen Square protest movement. Kristof and WuDunn's film addresses different types of gender-specific oppression in Africa and Asia from the perspective of not only Western journalists, but of Hollywood actresses.

Yes, the word, "oppression" conjures up mainly negative connotations reminiscent of the Women's Liberation Movement; the overtly angry woman with a huge chip on her shoulders.  But please do read on because the film encompasses so much more than that.  "Half the Sky" portrays humanity in the least human of places: the slums of India--where children sleep under their prostitute mother's beds while their mother is working, the desolate landscape of Somaliland--where nurses are fighting to get mothers the prenatal and neonatal care they and their babies need, etc.

Rather than go into a synopsis of the entire film, I would like to share my observations about it:

1. The first half is mind-harrowing and sad, as it discusses and interviews very young girls forced into prostitution; 2. Parts of the film are very PSA and pro-public policy in structure; 3. By including an America actress (Gabrielle Union-above video, Diane Lane, Meg Ryan, America Ferrera, Olivia Wilde, and Eva Mendes) in each segment (countries covered include Vietnam, Somaliland, Cambodia, and India), the film puts a very multiracial, female American face on the issue of global female oppression; 4. Discusses the role that Western nations play in maintaining this oppression (i.e.: Cambodia sex tours of underage girls sold in the US); 5. Importantly emphasizes the cultural relativism present when Western nations denounce culture-specific practices, such as female genital mutilation/cutting; 6. Emphasis on how education is the key to empowerment, but I did not like the you-have-to-learn-English-to-succeed mentality expressed; 7. It is mainly women who implement district-wide programs to help impoverished women and girls; 8. "The Colonizing West is the Best" tone is still evident in the film, albeit in subtle way, for many of the program implementers were formerly employees of either the US or England, as well as educated in the West; 9. Allowing women to be in charge of their own money bolsters the local economy (thanks for the reminder, GoHeyJudy) and country--not to mention, women and girls are treated better.

All in all, "Half the Sky" was a well edited, critically engaging documentary.  A sucker for documentaries, I was both critical and contemplative about the subject matter and portrayal of the women and girls in the film.  This film especially left me thinking of how the Interdependence Movement is genuinely a very real movement, since the stories are not just personal narratives: they are a deep dark hole where the unknown is dug up one-by-one, piece-by-piece, starkly revealing not just the treatment of women in each country, but the collective treatment of women all over the world, which is, as the film puts it bluntly, the social issue of our generation.  The video that opens this post is my favorite segment of the film, Gabrielle Union's trip to Vietnam.

August 18, 2012

Pinterest, Who?



I'll admit it...I finally registered for Pinterest.  Like six months after everyone else has.  I regained interest (pun intended) when I looked at the email invite that I kept from six months ago--now, two days and countless hours later, I am already at over 100 pins (posts).  Geez, says this once skeptic.  Truthfully, the site is getting rather addictive, since it is basically a precursor to online window shopping for pretty or inspirational things, purchasable or not.  Pinterest eases consumerism and drives that instant gratification high (minus the actual spending, in most cases), so I can see why people (mainly women) speak so highly of it.

***

It's still difficult for me to resist spelling it as "Pininterest," which sounds better to me--I just have to let it go.

***

On Pinterest, I've noticed some trends, which undoubtedly reveals its demographics:

- General keyword searches yield many wedding pins: photos of the event, dresses, diys, or themes (demographic: young women);

- Academic pins are not widespread (demographic: Pinterest members don't care about that stuff);

- Color combination searches include many nursery pins (demographic: women of childbearing age).

To bypass the whole keyword search option on Pinterest (where you have to repin from other members' boards), you can pin items directly from other sites, as well.


All in all, I am still very much intrigued by the site.  To me, its superficial aesthetic belies a truer intent--I think it has the potential to inspire an even larger demographic.  So, if you'd like to follow me on Pinterest, click here.  You may also notice a Pinterest button on the left-hand side of my blog in red.


A happy Sunday to you! 

July 23, 2012

The Discrepancy


Have you ever thought of charity work in Africa as a non-Christian, non-Mormon, etc., etc. endeavor?  Aside from the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation, that is.  I've (achingly) noticed that all appearances have pointed to the fact that it has historically been missionaries, now more so young religious folks on a mission through their church, that go to developing nations--such as Africa--and well, do good.  And in practice, Christianize.  Or Catholicize.  Why is there such a strong connection between religious conversion and charity in developing nations?

Why is there a noticeable social, socioeconomic, linguistic, and savior/heathen difference that distinguishes the haves from the have nots around the world when it comes to religious conversion, charity, and marketing?

There is a huge, discomforting capitalist slant in all of this to me--case and point: today, I read a blog on a lifestyle blog (name withheld) that I tend to frequent about once a week.  The blogger mentions/adorns a piece from an organization that sells/donates the proceeds from their goods--which were made by a group of women in Africa--to women in Africa.   Disclaimer: I am by no means putting down the organization's goal, which I truly believe is a thoughtful and helpful, ongoing task.  Instead, I am merely pointing to the capitalist, have-and-have-not mentality that this organization attempts to bridge, but nonetheless reinforces through their marketing to appeal to the female American buyer.

Back to the charity site.  Interested in this organization, I click on the link to its website.  Instantly, I am bombarded by photos of very young, happy, golden-haired (looks to be dyed) women with glowing, perfect skin and skinny bodies modeling the goods for sale.  Even the aesthetic was bright and cheery; staged and perfect.  Think stereotypes.  Granted, one model was dark haired and perhaps racially ambiguous, but still.  The model photos look like they are straight out of a J.Crew catalog (but even J.Crew is now seeing the need for models of different races).  Is this a luxury goods site masquerading as a charity organization? I wonder.  That question is quickly followed by another: Why does the site solely promote American capitalist, consumerist ideals when it is supposed to be a charity site with proceeds going to Africa?

All I could think was, "Savior.  Heathen.  Savior, heathen.  Savior/heathen."  And the lines blur.

I finally click on the charity site's "Designers" link--and images of the goods' creators emerge, tiny thumbnails of reserved-yet-smiling black African women (many of whom look like they've seen many bad days). Greatly contrasting with the images of large, bright, peppy images of the models, the designers' images are small, dark, and slightly somber.  By the photo comparison, these two groups of women seem light years away from one another.  And I imagine that buyers will solely identify with the models--I am doing some good!, they must exclaim before purchasing--and shy away from the discomfort that images of poverty and social/governmental upheaval evoke in us.  Stirring us to action.  But then, playing devil's advocate, maybe the designers' photos were meant to look somber.  Buy more, help out!  (Yes, I see the irony: I am also a shop owner.)

Lastly, I click on the "About" link, and there is an image of the founders, who, by all appearances, are merely older versions of the models, themselves.  Not literally...but just add five-to-ten years on the ages of the models, and you get the probably age of the founders.  It finally dawns on me that the site appeals to a certain demographic that I am clearly not a part of, even though I want to help out in some way.  Because of the marketing, I refrain.  It's the stark contrast between capitalism and exploitation, the haves and the have nots.

In this consumerist nation, I have the choice to refrain, just like the charity's founders have a choice in the design and marketing of their organization.  For the charity, underneath the pretty facade is ultimately an origin and a meaning...a goal.  What it all boils down to in developed nations is choice, and for that freedom, I am consummately grateful and decidedly, relieved.

June 13, 2012

Support Small Businesses

From Curator SF

I feel like I don't say it enough, these simple words--
thank you. 

 ***

Your support over this past year and a half has been so phenomenal; humbling.  (Back then, I was hesitant to open a shop, mainly because I was fearful about how it would be received by others.)  Mere words do not, cannot, possess the expansive breadth and depth of my gratitude.  

Okay, enough of the outpouring of heart.  Just know this: I appreciate it all.

November 25, 2011

Catching Up and All That Jazz

It's been a whirlwind week, and I am finally catching up with reading my daily blog list today...after helping out with Thanksgiving cooking and clean-up (I'm by no means the cook), a two-meal turkey fest, and oversleeping.  The news on the television jolted me awake--and I sat and stared in wide-eyed terror at the television screen--flabbergasted by events playing out on the news, particularly the rude behavior of some Black Friday shoppers.  Why would someone pepper spray others for a darned, inconsequential toy?  The irony of being thankful on Thanksgiving, and then being so downright mean to strangers the day afterward does not escape me.  What has happened to kindness and overall respect for oneself and others?

Yes, I do believe that the holidays bring out the subliminal mean streak of our society--the perpetual stress of merely thinking about spending time with family, the self-endowed entitlement of some, and the shopping crowds.  Everyone searching for the "perfect" gift for the "perfect" people in their lives.  I don't know if the current economy exacerbates this mean streak, but it sure seems to consistently rear its ugly head around this time of year, every year.  I can almost pinpoint the collective bad behavior to an exact date.

We need to chill out, mellow out...remember that consumerism shouldn't drive our reactions.


I suggest that instead of spending away at every seemingly-good deal--hoping that one of the gifts will "fit" a person on your gift list--we should entertain what the holidays truly means; not its point of departure or arrival, but its whole meaning.

For me, the true meaning of the holidays include: 
Reminding yourself who matters in your life and why (and in turn, remembering to be nice);
Shopping handmade and/or creating gifts;
And taking the time to reconnect with loved ones (this is not the same as the last-minute scheduling of spending time with others, or expecting someone to be free when you are because--let's face it--sometimes I don't feel like going out last minute).
This is, of course, not an exhaustive list of holiday contemplation, but it works for me.

I will be supporting handmade this holiday season, as well.  I will save the big-bargain shopping for others who can deal with the exuberant crowds, the Christmas music, and the mass marketing campaigns.

November 19, 2011

State of Transition

You could already tell by the new "look" of my blog--a stark-white background, contrasting heavily with the writing and images, the header a slightly off-kilter, lone raw citrine point--that I'm in a transitional phase.  Gone are my blog borders and blatant EmeraldCut header.  I'm craving images more than words right now.  This craving is not new or novel, but every time this crossover occurs, I am left speechless and in awe.  I love reading, the sound of a book page turning, a well-turned phrase.  But right now, it is much easier to admire the light and dark contrast of an image: its ability to be reinterpreted over and over again without critical thinking in the hand-eye-mind coordination sort of way.  In time, I will once again rekindle my longstanding relationship with words. 

Maybe I'm just mood matching with the weather, the cooling down prior to the onset of winter chill.  Lately, I've been finding myself infatuated with leaves.  Who knew that dying leaves--which could also be the symbolic representation of the life cycle and renewal--would be such an inspiration?  Leaf images have saturated this blog in golden yellows, vivid reds, and golden browns.  I have also recently purchased a vermeil maple leaf pendant for my sterling silver necklace chain.  My grandmother's name was Golden Leaf.  I like to think that these actions, unconscious or not, are all somehow connected: the weather, my new found penchant for leafy-type items, and this not entirely painful period of transition.

My writing process has been put aside for awhile, but I have been easing back into the ball and chain act of editing.  (I must state that it's a leaden ball and chain, and that editing, for me, is an arduous process of utter mental exhaustion.)  I got quite frustrated and angry over the act.  My husband says that my anger and frustration is the impetus to finish editing, to take that last step--stare it defiantly in the face--and prevail.  I think he is right because I've been more determined and clear-headed in this editing now than ever before.

I'm putting my foot down, and gluing myself down to my desk.  My daily Etsy searches will only last one hour a day, max.  I'm crossing my fingers, and tapping my toes: for this transition has in it an air of optimism.  I can feel it.  And for that, I am content.


    November 04, 2011

    Random Thoughts

    I'm staring out the window right now into a mild, clear sky with minimal wind, no preponderance of clouds, and nearly 60-degree weather (the latter of which I did not deduce from staring out the window--the temperature was stumbled upon by looking at our handy inside-outside thermometer).  Amos Lee's first cd, is playing ever so sweetly on iTunes: the man's voice is like honey.  A large cup of coffee is sitting next to me, turning cold over the lapse of time I've spent sitting here.  Perfecto.

    The stillness of contemplation has gotten me to thinking about how often my mood matches the weather.  You'd think my mood would more often match my husband's, but no.  Calm, cloudless sky equates to me being calm.  A dark, stormy day is reason enough for me to cocoon up in sweaters and long cardigans, lost all day in a quiet mood.  However, I can get snappy no matter what the weather is...and this reaction is more reliant on how lost in thought I am, rather than depending on external forces.  The more I am involved in that inner dialogue with myself, the more intense my reaction is when prematurely shaken out of my internal soliloquy.  I think it's an introvert thing because growing up, most people did not understand my seemingly dichotomous reactions/moods to..well, everything.  I'm not insane: truth be told.

    * * *

    My shop has picked up some momentum, as of late.  And for this, I am grateful; it helps in the holiday supply and gifts category for buyers and myself.  In this manner, the holidays is a symbiotic relationship.  People usually think that sellers sell just to earn money (and that they less often enjoy their occupation), not taking into account the personal and aesthetic joy that accompanies actually creating an item, and seeing it come to fruition.  The holidays are typically viewed as a justification to engage in consumerism, going from sale to sale.  An intricate dance--all in a rabid attempt to generate revenue.  However, this perspective erases every semblance of the handmade movement: the care, time, and creative energy it takes to make (and photograph) something. 

    So this holiday season, consider buying handmade in some capacity--whether it be something small (like gift tags) or large.  You can't beat the big stores on price and reputation, but by shopping handmade (and US-made), you can make a small-scale stance on keeping jobs in the US, rather than supporting outsourcing.  Being mindful, while engaging in consumerism, is the best gift for us all.

    Just some food for thought as the holiday shopping season approaches.  Be good; be kind.


    P.S. This holiday season, I am thinking about creating some snowflake ornaments to include in each purchased item from my shop. :)  Until then, I leave you with another autumn leaf...a recent, favorite shot that I've recently listed for sale because it so intricately epitomizes this time of year.  And let's face it: I'm an autumn girl!

    August 16, 2011

    Collage-ist

    I'm really digging my new, clean desk.  The free space is exhilarating and freeing from the physical and mental constraints of inactivity and creative blunder.  Actually, my desk is, again, taken over by things, but of the creative, introspective sort.  You see, I've began collaging again--not the small, ethereal ones you see in my shop, as it is over a foot long and wide.  It's a nesting collage, a permission of sorts to allow myself feel at home again in my newly-simplified space.  It's not that simplified, but I love it all the same.

    Here is the collage I'm working on--can't wait to decoupage and display it:




    A pretty bookend...a smoky quartz tumbled stone.  It took quite a few shots to capture the inclusions and coloring of this particular stone.



    Speaking of books, I purchased some vintage copies of Jane Eyre, and am planning to display them like pictures, minus the frame.  They're beaten up, have bent pages and covers, and the cover art is so kitschy and time period-specific.  In other words, they're charming in an offbeat way, and have so much character--I love them dearly.  It's funny, "vintage" in Etsian terms means any item older than twenty years old.  Personally, I consider a commodity as vintage if it was created prior to the 1980s.  (This personal guideline, of course, does not include people.)  One of my new/old Jane Eyre novels is copyrighted in 1962.  Does that mean that it's doubly vintage?

    My eccentric questioning streak will have to end here.  Have a good rest of the week--I can't believe it's already Tuesday.  Gracious appreciation must be given to my husband for all that he does.  Lastly (the real bookend), thank you to some wonderful buyers and my hermits who have left me such sweet and helpful feedback as of late!

    July 16, 2011

    My Week

    I don't think that one can think too much, although the frequency and perpetuation of thought can sometimes drive one crazy.  Like GET ME OUT OF HERE crazy.  Metaphorically speaking.  The mind is a powerful tool, words its conveyor of emotion, thought, and action.  Thoughts themselves convey little to no physical or emotional movement or flow; however, words cause an impact, whether it be through CAPITALIZATION, italicization, underlining, color change, or font change.  And these are just the physical/visceral capacity of words on paper.  What words cause you to feel, spoken aloud or read, can move the world, start a revolution.

    I've been oscillating between writing, creating art, and trying hard to market myself to no avail (without a Facebook or Twitter account, a self-chosen act on my part) this past week.  New twine for wrapping Kraft boxes, a new sentence here, another there...a handful of new shop and blog banners, business cards.  Is it worth it to try?



    Sometimes it feels so difficult to even take a deep, long breath--to just let it be and say that things happen for a reason, that things will turn out okay...

    My art isn't perfect, but it is an extension of my innermost thoughts.  Emotions and thoughts raw and open wide for all to see.  My thought process is so personally valuable and complex, as all my energy goes into that one piece for however long it takes for me to create it.  As a perfectionist, I took so long and hard to create my shop concepts and beliefs, for I wanted it to reflect the contexualized Me.  As products go, I know that pendants are not an extensively marketable product, but I sell mainly pendants for consumer affordability and more earth-conscious reasons.  Yet, sometimes I feel like consumers don't even care about the "process," and care only about the end result: the piece (thanks, mass consumption!).  For me, the process is the most amazingly touching, painfully validating, and exploratory part of making handmade pieces.  The "process" is the contentment and the frustration, contained within the form.




    Perhaps the perfection is in all its imperfection, its amalgamated presence--the beauty in the thought process AND the end result.  As raw and vulnerable as it may be, I wouldn't have it any other way.

    March 21, 2011

    Spending Power...for Charity

    I do not categorize myself as a big shopper, but I do enjoy my rings and pendants--which is why I have a jewelry shop (that sells mainly pendants) on Etsy.  I design and create items that I would purchase, that I adore.  My consumeristic tendencies reflect my items for sale...good or bad?

    Am I contributing to the consumerism by women, when women's salaries are still not, for the most part, on par with men's?  The moral dilemma on spending the money that I do not necessarily have is constantly bringing up these moralistic issues in me.  It's a woman thing, I think.

    However, I spent the majority of my afternoon and night looking for items to purchase on Etsy, where the proceeds would go to relief efforts in Japan--when I should have been writing (but it was a fun break!).  :/  I just purchased a beautiful gray moonstone ring (see image below) from UmiDesign--she is originally from Sendai, Japan, and is donating 20% of each item in her shop.

    JAPAN RELIEF: Moonstone Ring in Sterling

     


    I also like ShihoYamashita's jewelry.  She is also originally from Japan--30% of all sales from her shop will go to disaster relief in Japan.  I especially love this necklace:

    Earthquake Relief for Japan - Black and White Necklace




    Another very cool item from the husband and wife team, iswasandwillbe  I've been eyeing this pendant (see below) VERY intently--it is gloriously unisex in design.  They've created only 30 of these uniquely subtle pendants, each with 100% of proceeds going to charity.


    11 of 30 limited edition every bit necklace FOR JAPAN, 100 percent of proceeds donated

     



    100% of proceeds from the collective shop, loveforjapan, will be donated to disaster relief in Japan.  There you will find my donated my Unique Carnelian and Red Aventurine Pendant.   :)

     Please click on the shop banner below to enter the shop.




    ------ --- -- -- ---- -- - - -- --- --- --- --- ----- --- ---- ---- -- - - - -- - ----- -- - ----- ----- ---- -- - -- - - - - ---- - --

    Moral of the/my (spending)story: 
     Spending money for charity is something that I truly enjoy and feel good about; it is spending power at its greatest.  Yet, women are the most prolific consumers in our society, even when our wages are unequal with men's (the facts show this-- last week, my husband and I saw a blurb on the gender wage gap on the national evening news).  I acknowledge that I am part of this group (even if I don't consider myself a prolific shopper).  However, it is okay to treat yourself to something nice once in awhile.  :) 


    Good causes are good to donate to, but donation directly to an organization is even better, for what you get in return is more than just an item purchased in exchange for a donation: you relinquish the moral dilemma around purchasing "unneeded," aka "decorative" items.  You feel inherently good about getting nothing in return besides the giddiness that accompanies doing a good deed.  Like opening the door for an elderly man or woman.


    Donating anything is a good thing, and is a rarity in our increasingly fragmented society, where donations are needed so greatly--yet are oftentimes unfulfilled.  Instead of the "me, me, me" mentality, we need to get to an "us, us, us" mentality, on a local and global scale.  Technology is a double-edged sword, for it allows us to connect globally, sell our wares for good causes and income, and also is so costly to our pocketbooks (think cellphones, laptops, etc.) and nullifies much of our face-to-face interactions.  Coldness, I say, but with a flickering glimmer of light.