Sacramento Delta Trip Part III: Isleton, CA

Sign for historic Main Street in Isleton, CA

A few weeks back, we took a trip to the Sacramento River delta towns of Locke, Walnut Grove, and Isleton, CA.  This post documents our exploration of Isleton.  Like Walnut Grove, Isleton once had a substantially large Chinatown and Japantown.  Ethnically speaking, this town's claim to fame is the Bing Kong Tong building, a colorful structure that was featured on the PBS series, History Detectives.

Entering Isleton, you notice that you drive through the "good" side of town first.  Homes here have manicured lawns, well-tended front yard gardens, and the quintessential white picket fence.  Then, as you cruise down historic Main Street, the scenery progressively becomes "seedier" with more character and noticeable structural decay--this is where the town's businesses are located.  Isleton's Chinatown and Japantown are located at the end of Main Street, away from the white part of town.

 Entering Isleton: the "good" part of town 

Driving down old Main Street 

Driving down Main Street, old and dilapidated buildings catch one's eye--some with new businesses, others are remnants of buildings locked up and closed.  Many cars were parked in spaces, but few people were seen on the streets.  The feel of Isleton is that you are stepping back in time (minus the modern cars and businesses), but tourism is less prominent a feature here than in Locke and Walnut Grove.  We instead felt out of place as tourists.  An ominous feeling pervaded, like we were foreigners who were tolerated by the town's locals.  (FYI: my photos of the non-Chinatown area were taken while driving.)

The "seedier" part of Isleton

Lots of rustic character = neat photos

When we arrived in the Chinatown, we parked and stepped out.  For history lovers, the Bing Kong Tong (see below) may be the main attraction here on Isleton's Main Street.  Background: the Tong Wars were fought between rival tongs (aka Chinese gangs) in the pre-1920s era throughout the West Coast.  Interestingly, Tong buildings operated as community centers, but were basically a commercial front for gang activities.  This pre-1920s time period was like the Chinatown Wild West, since it was before families could establish in the US due to anti-Chinese laws (it was not until the early 1950s that this changed).  The fact the Isleton has a Tong building shows that the Chinese community here was once thriving.

 

Bing Kong Tong--

featured on the PBS series, History Detectives

According to the signage next to the Bing Kong Tong, the historic renovation has largely been an ongoing process.  Peeking into one of the windows, one can see modern wooden support beams and insulation added to preserve the building's structure.  The signs below detail, in a scholarly way, both Chinese American and Japanese American history in Isleton and the surrounding area.  

Note the metal walls--

this choice in outer building material was because it is a fire deterrent

Isleton's Japantown and Chinatown history is stated in the informative panels above.  

If you are interested in reading the information here, I took a close-up shot of each panel. 

A colorful Chinatown building

Chinatown buildings; same colorful one as above

(photo taken from across the street)

Where are the Japantown photos?

We drove through Isleton to find its Japantown, but it appears that few buildings are now labeled as such--or at least to those who casually drive by.  Due to this, and the feeling of being a foreigner (with stares from locals), we did not pursue an exploration of the adjacent Japantown.  There was a temple, I believe, down a side street that we saw while cruising by.

 Sidewalk near the Chinatown and Japantown areas 

The lighting was harsh in mid-day and the weather hot, but the photos here captured the desolation and solitary small-town feel that we experienced in Isleton.  

Afterthoughts:
Looking back, my favorite photos from this Sacramento River delta-towns trip were from Isleton--although we did not exactly feel welcome there as tourists.  The run-down buildings, abiding stillness, and various states of decay left an imprint on me, a belated gift from this tiny rural town.

Locke and Walnut Grove were more exciting and fun to explore on foot, and were undoubtedly more tourist friendly.  It is not a surprise that I enjoyed the visit to each town for different reasons: Locke for its rich ethnic history and decaying, funky feel; and Walnut Grove for its quaintness and warmth, plus its history.

For history buffs, each town--Walnut Grove, Locke, and Isleton--offers something slightly different and unique to the visitor, although the drive is all but 10 miles apart.  A trip to all three towns can be completed in a few hours, and is worth the drive.  Highly recommended if you love rural life, historic sites, and wandering around semi-deserted towns.

Links:
- History of the Tong Wars:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bing_Kong_Tong
- Isleton Chamber of Commerce:
http://www.isletoncoc.org
- Historic Chinatown and Japantown in Isleton:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isleton_Chinese_and_Japanese_Commercial_Districts
- California's old Japantowns:
http://www.californiajapantowns.org/profiles.html
http://www.japantownatlas.com
- A cool Flickr feed of Sacramento delta towns:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/whsieh78/albums/72157626067277853

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Part 1 of this Sacramento delta trip to Walnut Grove can be read here.

See Part 2, our trip to Locke, here.

Sacramento Delta Trip Part II: Locke, CA

A few weeks back, we took a trip to the rural Sacramento River delta towns of Locke, Walnut Grove, and Isleton, which are about 30 miles south of Sacramento.  This post documents our trip to Locke, a historically significant place in that it is the only all-Chinese town in the United States--and not an ethnic enclave of Chinatown within a town or city.  Specifically, Locke is unique in that it was a town built from the ground up by the Chinese for their own community.

Bitter Melon by Jeff Gillenkirk and James Motlow

An oral history, with photographs, of Locke's first residents

History:
The town of Locke was first settled by Chinese immigrants in 1915 after a fire ravaged the Chinatown in nearby Walnut Grove.  Over the years, descendants moved on for better opportunities; now there are fewer than 10 Chinese American residents in Locke.  A designated historical landmark, the town does have some thriving long-time businesses, notably Al the Wops (a popular biker bar) and Locke Garden (a Chinese restaurant).  Locke's centennial was celebrated this past May.

What you will find there: original 1910s-1920s architecture, remnants of old gambling/prostitution establishments (via doorways and signs), a few museums, natural decay--and many cats.


Below are photos I took in Locke:

View from one end of Main Street
(in front of the old schoolhouse) 

The above image shows roughly 1/3 of Locke's Main Street, which is (and was in the past) the commercial district.  A church is located on the next street over in a residential area.  FYI: Beyond Main Street are private homes, so be respectful and do not trespass.

One of the alleyways on Main Street

Locke has a few of these wooden floorboard alleyways on Main Street that are overgrown with lush plants.  The alleyways lead via staircase from Main Street to the two-lane highway (which is on a levee), as shown in the above image.  Smaller, less decadent pathways are on side streets that run parallel to Main, and were used as shortcuts within the town.

The famous toilet garden (a great story)

The toilet garden:
As the Chinese moved out or died, Locke's houses were sold to whites.  Ironically, the new owners wanted the Chinese houses but not their "tainted" toilets, so they threw them out.  The late Connie King, who was Locke's unofficial mayor and a second-generation Chinese American, took these toilets and in a subversive act against racism, made something "pretty" with them: a toilet garden.  This garden she prominently displayed in town on a side road near her home.

Connie King was an amazing woman, a tireless community activist who fought to preserve the history and integrity of the town--and for good reason.  King married a Locke resident, raised her children in town, and, in 1990, was integral in securing historical landmark status for Locke.  Moreover, King fought for the Chinese to own their own land in Locke (read the story in the next paragraph).  Ironically, her husband, a Chinese American WWII vet, was at the time not legally allowed to purchase or own land due to race.  Connie King passed away in her sleep in 2009.

There is a troubling backstory about home ownership in Locke.  Due to anti-Chinese laws and Locke being privately owned until 2001, the Chinese were not allowed to own their own land until 2004-2005.  It was then that the Sacramento Housing and Redevelopment Agency, whom the private owner sold Locke to, parceled up the land to sell.  Consequently, from 1915 up until the mid-2000s, purchasing a home in Locke meant that you owned the home but not the land that it sat on.  (This article sums up the story well).

Back to our trip:
When we were photographing the toilet garden, an act of serendipity occurred.  A hippie-ish man in his fifties or sixties, who was unpacking items from his car nearby, began talking to us about the garden.  It turns out that he is James Motlow, the photographer of the definitive book on Locke, titled Bitter Melon.  The book is now in its 6th edition printing for Locke's centennial this year.  Part oral history and part haunting photographic exploration of the interviewees, Bitter Melon is a worthy read and a unique snapshot in time.  Motlow now lives in Connie King's old house, which is across the gravel road from the toilet garden.

A view of the Main Street buildings from the highway 

From the photo above, one can see where the top of a Main Street alley's stairway leads to: a business-type space complete with a porch, overhang, and walkway to the highway.  These old storefronts are the second stories of the buildings seen on Main Street.  Interestingly, the false facades still bear remnants of old painted-on business names.  Behind the photographer is the 50 mph two-lane highway atop the levee; on the other side of the highway-levee is the Sacramento River.

Side note: This tight highway-river-town layout leaves no room for error: one wrong steer and you are on the shoulder of the highway, or worse yet, in the Sacramento River.

Dai Loy Museum (gambling house)

All the museums were closed when we visited, except the schoolhouse.  The above image is of the Dai Loy Museum: a gambling house.  Note the bright green arched entryway right behind the museum sign, which indicates the location of a business establishment for thrill seekers.  On other buildings, some of these arched entryways lead to a door with a lamp above it--likely houses of ill repute, or at least so when Locke was a thriving ethnic community.

Center of Main Street

The building to the left is nearly falling over, and is etched with names and dates of visitors on its front wall.  Across the street is famous biker bar, Al the Wops.  Loud music was heard blaring when the doors opened.  Above the sidewalk are occasional overhangs whose shade makes the Valley heat more bearable.

Old storefront sign under an overhang:
"Wah Lee Boots Dry Goods"

Currently, the majority of Main Street's buildings are boarded up or used as storage.  Around 1/4-to-1/3 of the buildings are current businesses, the majority of which were closed on our visit.

Afterthoughts:
This was not my first trip to Locke, however, it was my first in nearly a decade.  On my first visit to Locke nearly a decade ago, the mood of the town then was oddly New Age-y, but a sense of excitement could be sensed in the air: Connie King was still alive at that time (I remember seeing her), and Locke's residents had finally been able to own their land for just three years.

Now, in 2015, the old boarding house is a California State Park, and with it came, in my opinion, a renewed interest in preserving Locke's ethnic history.  The feel of Locke in 2015 is ever-so-slightly tourist-y and less influenced by the New Age aesthetic; its capitalistic allure more so the Chinese aspect (and the romanticism that accompanies it) and Al the Wops than a crumbling quirky old town.  The buildings are decidedly shabby and in disrepair; the town is overrun by cats; the chubby town dog has since passed; Connie King is gone--but something remains in Locke that I hope will never leave: a sense of struggle and continuance in a changing world.

Links:
- Locke's National Park Service site:
http://www.nps.gov/nr/twhp/wwwlps/lessons/locke/locke.htm
- Main website for Locke:
http://www.locketown.com
- Locke Foundation:
http://www.locke-foundation.org
- Purchase the Bitter Melon book:
http://www.amazon.com/Bitter-Melon-Inside-Americas-Chinese/dp/0578155893

* * *

Part 1 of this Sacramento delta trip can be read here.
See Part 3 on Isleton here.

Sacramento Delta Trip Part I: Walnut Grove, CA

A few weeks back, we took a trip to the rural California delta towns of Locke, Walnut Grove, and Isleton located about 30 miles south of the state's capital along the scenic Sacramento River.  You cross the highway and there is the river beyond a 10-foot levee: both towns are only 10 feet above sea level.  This post documents our trip to Walnut Grove, with some history thrown in.

Sign in Walnut Grove indicating the old Chinatown and Japantown

History:

In the early 20th century, the town of Walnut Grove was home to a thriving Chinatown, and even boasted a large Japantown.  These communities shared a border due to racial segregation.  However, a Chinatown fire in 1915 provided the impetus for many in the Walnut Grove Chinese community to move--and move they did, a mile away, and built the tiny town of Locke from the ground up (see my next blog post).  Another fire in the '30s wiped out Chinatown yet again.  The Japanese American community in Walnut Grove, on the other hand, never burned down and instead became a cultural hub.  Yet after Japanese American relocation and internment during WWII, the population shifted; as later generations moved to urban areas for better opportunities, Japantown adapted.  According to this site, today there are still some ethnic businesses and a JA community in Walnut Grove. 

    

Below are some photos I took on our trip to this historic town:

Hayashi Co. (market)

Located on the corner of Tyler and B. Streets; next to the public parking lot.

It appears that the storefront is still used--the phrase "productos Mexicanos" is visibly adhered under the bolded old shop name on the sign.

Kawamura Barber Shop

First opened in 1916 by an Issei (first generation), the owner's daughter continued her father's business until at least 1993--signs inside the shop note its history.  Looking into the window of this once-business was like stepping back in time: modern appliances can be seen among early 20th-century decor.

Front of Kawamura Barber Shop 

(Chinatown is behind the photographer)

Chinatown buildings

Note the repainted Chinese Freemasons sign above the pale-green doorway of the yellow building.  I am unsure if these buildings were built prior to the 1915 and 1930s fires, but the buildings do indeed look old.  Mainly businesses (art studios, restaurants, etc.) line this street, and all appeared closed--or the doors were closed due to midday heat.

Afterthoughts:

Walnut Grove is a tiny tourist-friendly town without the tourist feel.  We really enjoyed the trip, and spent over an hour just taking it all in.  The streets of the historic districts shown here were mostly free of people; few cars lined the curbs.  Some restaurants were open, but otherwise the town was fairly quiet, which was perfect for exploring and taking one's time photographing the immediate area.  As for parking, the Japantown and Chinatown were a short walk from the designated parking lot, but a Japanese temple and a few other buildings are on other streets (see map here).  It was neat seeing the modern uses of the old buildings, but finding the Kawamura Barber Shop was the highlight of the trip, as it was a unique snapshot in time.  Japantown now appears to be a residential area, so we kept our voices down.  This town is definitely worth a visit if you are interested in history and rural, small town life: population 1,500.

Note: There is a short bridge that can be accessed slightly south of Walnut Grove to cross the river.

Links:

- Walnut Grove/Locke tourism: 

http://www.walnutgrove.com/index.html

- Informative site on California Japantowns:
http://www.californiajapantowns.org
- Helpful Japantown maps:
http://www.japantownatlas.com

* * *

See Part 2, our trip to Locke, here.

Read Part 3 on Isleton here.